Bits, Saddle Fitting and Hoof Balance

With Instructor Eleanor Blazer

Lesson Two

Saddle Fitting

Girth a horse tightly so the saddle doesn’t slip. Wrong!

Position the saddle correctly so the saddle doesn’t slip. Right!

Girth the horse “snugly”, but never tightly.

Tight girths are just one of the “don’t dos” of tacking up. Horses that are girthed tightly soon become “cinchy” and dislike being saddled. Once they resent being saddled, they’ll often reach around and try to bite the saddler…or they’ll expand their girth area so the girth will be “snug,” but comfortable when they relax.

That “snug” girth is nearly always “just about right.” After all, riding is easy….just keep a leg on each side…and you don’t need a tight girth to do that.

But before you girth that saddle, let’s study saddles, and then saddle fitting.

Most of the world calls the “riding” saddle a flat saddle. In the US we generally call it an English saddle.

The flat or English saddle is split into two basic styles…the Saddle Seat and the Hunt Seat.

Saddle Seat riders use a saddle with a relatively flat seat that places the rider well behind the withers and just behind the horse’s natural balance point (center.) Saddle Seat riders are expecting to ride down the road or in the show ring; they are not expecting to “jump.”

While any breed can be ridden with the Saddle Seat saddle, the most common breeds are American Saddlebreds, Morgans, Tennessee Walking Horses, Arabians and most gaited horses.

Because the head of the saddle is often cut back to accommodate high withered horses, the saddles are sometimes called, “cutbacks.”

The Hunt Seat saddle, often called a Forward Seat saddle, are very popular now in the US. The breeds most often ridden with a Hunt Seat saddle are Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, Warmblood breeds, Paints, etc.

Sub-categories include: All-Purpose, Close Contact and Dressage.

The All-Purpose saddle is the most popular due to its general versatility. It has a deeper seat and a padded knee roll to provide more security and can be ridden in such disciplines as pleasure, trail riding, horsemanship and even eventing. It is an excellent choice for the new or novice rider.

The Close Contact saddle is used for jumping rather than flat work. It is designed with a very flat seat allowing the rider to maintain a very sharp hip angle facilitating the rider taking the “two-point” jumping position.

The Dressage Saddle is used specifically for dressage, giving the rider balance through the seat while allowing maximum side contact with the horse. The dressage rider wants a straight hip angle, allowing a “deep” seat. The straight, longer flap on the dressage saddle promotes a longer stirrup. A knee roll is optional.

The dressage rider’s saddle allows for maximum leg contact.

LEARN THE PARTS OF THE FLAT SADDLE

Most English or flat saddle are made in Germany, England, Australia or Argentina, and are made of leather. However, synthetic materials are becoming popular among many new or novice riders since they are very affordable and easy to maintain.

The fittings for a flat saddle—stirrup leathers, stirrup irons and girth--are not generally included with the saddle, and are selected to meet the needs of the individual rider.

The western saddle, originating long before the wild west of the US, is also designed on a “form to function” basis.

The general purpose western saddle is used for everything. But more and more the western rider is seeking a specialized form, such as the cutting saddle, the roping saddle and the “games” saddle used for barrel racing and pole bending.

The cutting saddle has a “wrap around” fork configuration to help hold the rider in place as the horse moves laterally with almost unbelievable speed.

The roping saddle has the stirrups set in such a way as to keep them from moving rearward. This allows the roper to stand in the stirrups and lean forward without his or her feet swinging toward the horse’s hindquarters.

The game saddle is cut small to avoid any kind of interference with the horse’s movement and to reduce the saddle’s overall weight.

The most specialized western saddles are the Parade saddle and the show saddle, both usually sporting silver in an array of patterns. While Parade saddles are big so they can carry lots of silver, the western show saddle has plenty of silver and a variety of “seats” to give the rider a “show look.”

LEARN THE PARTS OF THE WESTERN SADDLE

Saddle Blankets and Pads

Saddle blankets and pads are designed to 1. protect the horse’s back, 2. absorb sweat and moisture, 3. protect the saddle and 4. help saddles fit better.

NAVAJO BLANKETS are colorful outer blankets used with the western saddle. They are made of wool and can be quite expensive. They need to be dry cleaned, but if cared for, will last a lifetime.

SHEEPSKIN PADS are sort of the English equivalent of the Navajo blanket. Sheepskin pads are expensive, but if brush clean after each use and occasionally washed in cool water, they too will last a lifetime.

BLENDED FIBER blankets look like Navajos, but are not as durable since then are usually made of cotton or some synthetic.

IMITATION SHEEPSKIN is just what it says it is. Popular because they are less expensive, they don’t hold their shape as well as the real thing and they are not as absorbent. They are less expensive and are usually machine washable.

HAIR PADS are great at absorbing sweat and they are good shock absorbers. The drawbacks include being hard to clean and slow drying. Protective leather pieces (wear patches) under the stirrup leathers on the western saddle protect the pad, giving it a longer life.

FELT PADS are available for both western and English saddles, but are hard to keep clean and cannot be washed.

FOAM PADS are available for both western and English saddles and are great shock absorbers. They come in a range of colors and quality. They have one big drawback…foam doesn’t breathe, so they create a good deal of sweat and can setup a situation where the horse’s back is irritated.

THERAPEUTIC PADS are available in for both western and English saddles. Riders choose them for horses that become back-sore easily or as an insurance policy when a horse is under extra stress. Before going to a therapeutic pad, check to make sure the saddle fits correctly.

To know about saddle fitting, we start with the horse’s back.

Most veterinarians, horse trainers and riding instructors agree between 25 and 50 per cent of all horses have some degree of soreness in their back. You don’t actually hear them complaining because horses are pretty stoic when it comes to pain, and the manifestation of the sore back comes in the form of sour expression, poor movement, loss of condition and resistance to work. (To make a preliminary test, just run your finger tips down your horse’s back on both sides of his spine. If the horse flinches or “sinks” he probably has some sore spots.)

The horse’s back is much like a human’s. The back is composed of a chain of bones, through the middle of which runs the spinal cord and around the outside of which are affixed large, strong muscles and the ribs. The horse’s spine was designed to have weight suspended from it, but not to support weight on one small part atop it.

When you are sitting on a horse, the horse’s spine is under strain it was not designed to withstand. Imagine the strain on the horse’s back when we gallop him, bounce on him, or jump him.

To make matters worse for the horse, the horse’s spine has very little direct or lateral flexion. In fact, the spine normally only bends in fractions of a millimeter. All this talk of “lateral spinal flexion” is just that—so much talk; lateral flexion of the horse’s spine is virtually imperceptible. What lateral flexion he does achieve, he does by softening his body.

Any injury or stress to the spinal bones can produce inflammation which essentially is the mildest form of back soreness. Of course there can also be damage to the muscles, to the spinal cord itself or to the ribs.

The two main causes of “ordinary” sore backs are pressure and friction.

Both are generally caused by poor fitting saddles, saddle pads and saddle blankets. (After poor fitting tack, the second greatest cause of sore backs is poor riding skill.)

According to a study by New Mexico State University National Agri-Marketing Club a very large percentage of riders do not have properly fitting saddles.

The study considered two types of riders, ropers and barrel racers. The roping saddle sample showed 41.3 per of the saddles had unacceptable saddle bar pressure and nearly 27 per cent showed spinal pressure at harmful levels.

Fit problems were far more likely to occur at the front of the saddle with 93 per cent showing elevated pressure points at the pommel.

Bridging was an issue with almost 85 per cent of the roping saddles.

The barrel saddle sample showed excessive pressure in the front of the saddle in 49 per cent of the cases with 16 per cent showing spinal pressure. More than 90 per cent of the barrel saddle showed “bridging.”

The study is a myth buster if you think saddle pads can correct poor saddle fit. It is incorrect to think a thicker pad will be more comfortable for your horse. The study revealed that every inch of pad thickness increased the chance of poor fit by more than 23 per cent because the “pad paradox” increased the incidence of bridging.

The first time a saddle is placed on a horse, that saddle should be tested for fit. If the saddle doesn’t fit properly……don’t use it! And claiming it is the only saddle available is not acceptable. Anyone who can’t beg, borrow or purchase a saddle that fits his or her horse should not be riding.

CORRECT SADDLE PLACEMENT

(ENGLISH OR WESTERN)

Have the horse standing on level ground.

Ideally, we want the saddle placed so it rests solidly and level on the horse’s back. In this position, the rider’s center of balance will be just behind the horse’s natural balance point at a standstill. As the horse begins to move, engaging the hindquarters, his natural balance point (just behind and slightly above his elbow) will move back and under the rider as the horse begins to round his back upward. Now the horse, saddle and rider are in balance.

Place the saddle pad or blanket over the withers and well forward. Now place the saddle in position, over the withers and forward.

Slide the saddle and pad backward until they settle into a natural position, behind the withers and level on the back.

For many, this saddle position is going to seem too far back. It is not!

The gullet of the saddle will be somewhat over the withers, the saddle will be level (gullet and cantle level) and the back of the saddle will not be pressing into the loin area. The girth will not be immediately behind the elbow, but will be several inches behind the elbow.

Check the pad or saddle blanket.

At least two fingers should slide easily between the withers and the saddle.

Saddle is sitting level on horse’s back - off the withers, but not into the loin.

Girth is behind elbow. The saddle is in its natural place and not restricting shoulder movement.

If the saddle is left too far forward, well over the withers, and the girth is directly behind the elbow, the movement of the horse’s shoulders will be restricted. Both stride and lateral action are adversely affected.

Properly position, the saddle will not need to be “tightly” girthed. It stays in position naturally and only needs a “snug” girth to remain there.

Now in position, the rider should check the pad or saddle blanket and lift it up into the gullet so that at least two fingers slide easily between the withers and the saddle.

Problems arise when the saddle is left propped forward on the horse’s withers, or when the saddle is pushed too far back and rests on the loin. (Western saddles with large skirts—mucho room for silver---are usually the saddles that create soreness in the loin area.)

Horses with wide flat (mutton) withers can suffer discomfort and pain if the saddle creeps forward toward the neck. Rubberized or “non-slip” grip pads can help avoid this problem.

When a saddle is built with a downward slope fore to aft (Saddle Seat, Western Equitation Seat), the rider is seated behind the horse’s center of balance, causing unwanted pressure on the horse’s back near the loin.

You can spot problems from the ground if you just stand back and observe the tacked horse.

Are the forks of a western saddle or the pommel of an English saddle sitting higher than the cantle? Is the saddle too far forward crowding the shoulders? Do the bars of the saddle rest on the loins? Do the stirrups hang off the vertical?

If the answer to any of those questions is “yes,” evaluate the design of the saddle; reposition the saddle and then decide if it is the saddle or just the way the horse was tacked.

The tongue on a western girth should not be left unused. The protruding piece of steel could cause injury if the horse should fall or brush against something solid. If you've got it, use it. If you prefer to tie the latigo, use a girth with "tongue less" hardware.

Secure the tongue Do not let the tongue protrude

A BIT MORE TECHNICAL FOR WESTERN SADDLE

The bars of a western saddle are usually called Quarter Horse bars or Arabian bars—essentially, they are the same thing.

A semi-QH bar is for a narrow to average sized horse with relatively high withers.

QH bars are for an average size to wider horse with an average withers for his size and shape.

Full QH bars are for a wide horse to a small draft type with a flat withers.

You should be able to put 3 to 4 fingers together and place them vertically between the withers and the pommel of the new saddle. Once a saddle is broken-in, the distance will shrink to 2 to 3 fingers.

Looking at the saddle from the back—yes, you need to stand directly behind the horse, so be careful—there should be no obvious gaps along the back of the saddle.

There should be space between the end of the saddle skirt and the horse’s hips so the hip and loin are not rubbed.

You will need to ride a saddle to make a final determination as to its proper fit.

Ride the western saddle for 5 minutes and then get off and check the fit again. Has the saddle shifted? Is it rubbing the horse anywhere? Are the withers free from pressure?

Remount and walk, jog and lope for 15 minutes or more to be sure the horse is creating a sweat under the saddle pad or blanket. While riding, you should be looking for unusual behavior…such as laying back of the ears, bucking, or turning to bite at your leg—all signs the saddle might not be too comfortable.

When you are sure the horse has had enough work to break a sweat under the saddle pad and blanket, return to the barn and pull the saddle. What to you see?

If the horse’s back has a nice even wet spot showing that the saddle and pad sat evenly on the horse’s back, you can be pretty sure the saddle is a good fit.

If there are dry spots, you can be pretty sure the saddle does not rest evenly along the horse’s back. You might need a different tree width, or the saddle might not be well constructed, or you may have had the saddle too far forward or too far back. You’ll have to make some decisions at this point; retest or find a new saddle.

Saddles, inexpensive or high priced may have defects such as panel and flaps asymmetrical, or twisted trees. Be sure to check the saddle from side to side; some minor differences can be tolerated, but those can be seen with the naked eye will usually cause pressure point problems.

Everything seems to be going high-tech, including saddle fit. There are supposedly computerized saddle pads with pressure sensors that are placed under the saddle, and then connected to a computer. The horse is lunged and the sensors show high or low pressure points on the computer screen.

While technology is often useful, it is also often complicated, confusing and useless. What technology is “reporting” during a single test today, may be far from the truth tomorrow. There are ever-changing variables—the horse, the saddle and the rider.

Informative western saddle link (with advertising):

http://www.western-saddle-guide.com:80/

A BIT MORE TECHNICAL FOR THE ENGLISH SADDLE

Place the saddle slightly forward on the horse’s withers, and then press down on the pummel and slide the saddle reward until it stops at the place dictated by the horse’s conformation. Repeat this placement several times until you are sure the saddle is stopping in the same place each time. This spot should be 2 to 3 inches behind the shoulder blade.

Lift the flap of the saddle and find the angle of the points, located just under the stirrup bars—one on each side. If the angle of the points is too narrow, the points will dig into the horse’s muscle. If they are too wide, the saddle will sit down in front putting pressure on the withers. Some points are virtually hidden. If that is the case, you’ll have to rely on the panel pressure procedure to make a determination.

To perform the panel pressure procedure, place a hand on the center of the saddle seat and press the saddle down on the horse’s back. Hold the saddle in place with one hand while you run the other hand, palm up, under the panels all the way to the back of the saddle to feel for any uneven contact with the horse’s back. Lift the flaps and examine to fit to ensure the panels are snug and even on both sides of the withers, that there is no pressure on the withers and that there is no “bridging,” space where the saddle does not make good contact with the back.

In a saddle with a deep or moderate seat, the cantle should be 2 to 3 inches higher than the pommel. In shallow seats, such as close contact saddles, the cantle may be only 1 to 2 inches higher than the pommel.

If the cantle is level with or below the pommel, the saddle does not fit properly.

The area of the deepest part of the saddle seat should be level, placing the rider squarely on the seat bones and in balance.

The clearance between the pommel and the withers should be approximately 2 to 3 fingers. If the pommel is higher than that, then the saddle tree is probably too narrow. If the pommel is less than 2 fingers above the withers, then the tree is probably too wide. If the panels are stuffed with wool, make allowance for the saddle to settle about a half inch.

Check the channel clearance. There should be adequate clearance over the spine and connective tissue throughout the channel.

The saddle should not shift excessively side to side or up and down. Some shifting may be due to the muscle conformation of the horse.

A saddle should never extend beyond the vertebrae corresponding to the last rib, as that area is weakest area of the back.

Finally, monitor the horse’s response to all that you are doing. Watch for body language telling you the saddle may not be as comfortable as you had hoped. And as with the western saddle, ride the horse and watch him carefully during movement. Does he feel or appear free, or do you feel and or see resistance? Observation of the horse in movement may be the most important element of saddle fitting.

Once the saddle fits the horse, does the rider fit the saddle?

The most common fault is having a seat too small for the rider, forcing him or her to sit at the back of the saddle. In an English saddle the rider’s knee should be at the center of the position of a knee roll when the back of the rider’s heel would be on a vertical line dropped from the center of the rider’s shoulder.

English saddle sizes range from 16 to 18 inches for adults and from 12 to 16 inches for children. An English saddle is measured from the saddle nail (a rivet on the front side of the skirt near the pommel) to the mid-point of the cantle.

Sit in the saddle several times before you decide if you fit it and it fits you.

Western saddles generally have seats measuring 13 to 17 inches. Measure from the fork just below the saddle horn to the highest upward curve of the cantle. As a general rule there should be a tiny space between your lower back/buttocks and the cantle. Don’t be wedged into the saddle, and don’t have any overhang.

Even when saddles fit correctly, horse’s get sore backs. One of the causes is putting too much weight on too young a horse. Riding a young horse for short periods of time and with discretion helps to strengthen the horse’s muscular and skeletal systems.

Indiscriminate and excessive work forced on a horse by large riders quickly results in physical damage.

Spine supplying exercises, such as light lunge line work, can help alleviate some back soreness.

If, during your review of the saddle positioning, you notice your horse is smiling and appears “ready to go,” he is….so snug that girth and enjoy the ride.

Click here to take the quiz

Assignment:

1. Make a video of you going over the parts of a saddle, which you have memorized. Do not use a diagram or other form of assistance when making the video. You can use an English or western saddle.

2. Tell me about the saddle. Is this the saddle you normally use? For what discipline do you use it? What size is the seat?

3. Send me pictures of your horse saddled, with the girth/cinch fastened. Include one from each side.

Please send the video, pictures and report to Ms. Eleanor at: elblazer@horsecoursesonline.com